How to Check and Repair a Generator Regulator Relay

Today I want to add an article from another resource about checking the relay of the regulator of the VAZ car. The relay regulator of the domestic car is a capricious thing, when it fails, it is able to recharge or vice versa, do not charge your battery.

This spare part controls the voltage of the on-board network by changing the current of the excitation winding of the generator. If there is a suspicion of a malfunction of the generator, first of all, it is necessary to determine the performance of the relay regulator, perhaps it will be in it.

Today we will briefly tell you how to check the relay regulator VAZ!

For a more visual test, a deliberately faulty relay regulator from VAZ 2101 was taken for verification. To maintain the operating voltage of such a relay should be in the range of 14-14.4 V.

How to check the relay regulator VAZ?

To begin with, it is necessary to connect the relay regulator according to the circuit to the adjustable power supply. The warning light should not be too powerful, it can cause the relay to fail. In our case, the control light bulb will be an LED strip.

Then, gradually adding voltage, it is necessary to achieve the moment of operation of the relay. At this point, the control light will go out, this will be the necessary control point.

Voltage: 10.1 V. The control lamp is lit, all within normal limits. Voltage: 12.1 V. The control lamp is lit, all within normal limits. Voltage: 14.4 V. The control lamp is still on, and should already be extinguished. We will look further for the relay trigger point. Voltage: 15.4 V. The warning light continues to burn. Voltage 17.1 V. The control lamp is lit, but already very dim.

As can be seen from the test, this relay greatly overestimates the operating voltage, it is better to replace it immediately. The normal mode of operation of the relay is in the range of 14-14.4 V.

Repair of generator regulator relay

It is quite easy to disassemble the relay regulator VAZ, for this it is necessary to remove the plastic cover of the case, which is attached with latches. Next, you need to unscrew the two screws pressing the transistor and solder the terminals from the pins 67 and 15.

Importantly! When removing the board, it is necessary to monitor the insulating substrate of the transistor and try not to lose it. Without it, it is impossible to include relays in the work.

The board and the location of the radio elements of the old models of the regulator relay on it are slightly different from the new ones, but the circuit itself has not changed.

Verification of the elements should be started depending on the symptoms of the malfunction.

If the relay somehow works, overstates or underestimates the voltage, then most likely the transistors are intact. They can be checked last. The first to check the nominal value of resistors R1-R3 and Zener diode with diode D1; D4.

Attention! The rating of the resistor R3 may differ from that specified in the circuit. On the relay under test, the R3 resistance was 4.7 kΩ. It must be determined by color or other markings and check the resistance manually.

If the relay does not turn on at all, call the fuse F1, diodes D2; D3 and all transistors in the first place. When checking transistors, you must not forget to solder them from the circuit.

For clarity and convenience, all components from the scheme are indicated on the board. Often the entire board is covered with a layer of protective varnish, this must be taken into account and washed off at the places where the probes are connected.

In this case, the culprit was the Zener diode D3 – 2C147A. It was replaced by its full analogue KS147A.

For good accuracy, you can conduct a test with a multimeter, after the repair of the relay of the generator regulator is completely completed.

Voltage 13.05V. The control light bulb shines brightly. It’s okay. Voltage 14.15V. The control light is already shining very dimly. The relay begins to limit the current. Voltage 14.4V. The warning light is completely extinguished. The relay completely limited the current.

As can be seen from this test, the relay after repair perfectly copes with its tasks, and the operating mode is just included in the range of 14 – 14.4 V.

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